It takes a lot to bring The Edinburgh Blog out of hibernation, but judging by the reviews of The Mulroy on Tripadvisor it seemed conceivable that Jesus Christ himself had taken residence in the kitchen.
Ambience and service is beyond fault here. The service is probably the best we’ve had in Edinburgh - a comparison that withstands the Michelin men. The wine recommendations for each of our courses were fabulous - even more impressive was the fact all wines are available by the glass, so each course was matched perfectly to the wine.
The Mulroy is located in the basement, where you find the bar area (where food is also available) and two more dining rooms. All have great space between the tables and white tablecloths. It’s like private dining at some wealthy Scottish families ancestral home.
Food arrived at a nice pace - particular favorites were the seared scallops with pork belly - including a fantastic piece of crackling that tasted wonderful, without ever threatening my three new fillings. And the deeply rich lamb selection was superb - there can be no more appropriate dish for the surroundings.
It was a superb piece of cod for one of our mains, but unfortunately overcooked. The same problem affected the dark chocolate fondant dessert - solid on the inside - the disappointment dulled by a delectable bramble sorbet on the side.
So there were mistakes - enough evidence, we might suggest, that The Second Coming hasn’t chosen William St in Edinburgh. However, it’s one of the most enjoyable evenings I’ve had in this city. At ÂŁ39.50 for three courses I would suggest The Mulroy has set its price point perfectly. The tasting menu does not cost much more.
I’d definitely return, because I have a feeling The Mulroy is constantly evolving its dishes and its cooking techniques. Who knows later in the year this place might really be a contender for best in Edinburgh. It is certainly one of Edinburgh’s most interesting restaurants. Recommended.
The Mulroy is located at 11a-13a William Street, Edinburgh, EH3 7NG. Reservations are often necessary - 0131 225 6061.